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Lavender Plants

Lavender (Lavandula) remains one of the most reliably rewarding plants for a sunny London border — aromatic grey-green foliage, flowering spikes in shades from pale blush to deep violet-purple, and strong appeal to bees from midsummer onwards. Lavandula angustifolia cultivars offer the hardiest option with the finest fragrance; L. x intermedia hybrids produce more vigorous growth and flower slightly later, extending the season. Excellent in containers, along path edges, and as low, informal hedging. Sharp drainage is essential. Boma's lavender plants collection covers English lavender, French lavender, and Spanish lavender varieties, all chosen for reliable performance in London's sunny outdoor spaces. Visit us in Kentish Town for our seasonal range.

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About Our Lavender Plants Collection

Boma's lavender plants range covers the key types for UK gardens. English lavender — Lavandula angustifolia — is the classic choice: compact, fully hardy, with intensely fragrant flower spikes in violet, purple, pink, and white from early summer. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) cultivars including 'Hidcote' (deep violet-purple), 'Munstead' (soft blue-purple), and 'Rosea' (pale pink) are among our most popular lavender varieties. French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) produces its distinctive winged, flag-like flower heads from late spring and flowers for longer in sheltered positions, though it is less hardy than English lavender. Spanish lavender is similar to french lavender in character, with coloured pineapple-shaped bracts. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) is a vigorous hybrid producing tall, abundant flower spikes ideal for cutting, drying, and lavender oil extraction.

Lavender thrives in full sun in well-drained soil — this is the single most important condition for healthy, long-lived lavender plants. In London's clay-heavy soils, improve drainage with added grit and use raised beds, or grow lavender plants in containers with free-draining compost. Avoid overhead watering and never leave lavender in standing water, which quickly leads to root rot. Lavender plants need good air circulation — space them adequately and avoid crowding with other plants. Water established lavender only during prolonged dry spells. 

To prune lavender correctly, cut back by one third in late summer after flowering. Harvest lavender buds just as flowers fade for the most potent dried lavender, essential oils, and lavender honey. Lavender flowers are outstanding for attracting bees, butterflies, and other pollinators throughout summer — lavender's timeless charm in the garden is matched by its value as a pollinator plant.

Popular Questions

What is the difference between English and French lavender?
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the most widely grown lavender in UK gardens — fully hardy, compact, with the finest fragrance and the best quality lavender oil and lavender honey. English lavender cultivars flower from early summer through midsummer and are the best choice for dried lavender and culinary lavender. French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) has distinctive winged bracts above each flower head and begins flowering from late spring, continuing longer in mild conditions, but is less frost-hardy than English lavender and needs a sheltered spot in colder gardens. Spanish lavender is similar to french lavender in appearance. Lavandin (L. x intermedia) is a larger, more vigorous hybrid used for lavender oil production commercially, with taller flower spikes and a slightly camphor-tinged fragrance distinct from English lavender.
How do I prune lavender plants?
To prune lavender plants and keep them compact, cut back the soft grey-green foliage — not into old wood — by about one third in late summer after flowering. Never cut into the hard, brown old wood of established lavender plants: this part does not regenerate and hard pruning into it will kill the plant. Cut back flower spikes to a healthy pair of leaves to tidy the plant and encourage further flower buds. Annual pruning of lavender varieties by one third in late summer is far more effective than waiting until a plant needs drastic intervention. Lavender plants that have already become very woody and open-centred are best replaced — old wood does not regenerate, so restoration pruning is rarely successful.
Why are my lavender plants dying?
The most common cause of lavender plants failing and dying is poor drainage leading to root rot — lavender thrives in well-drained soil and cannot tolerate standing water. If lavender plants are yellowing, wilting, and the stems are soft at the base, root rot is the likely cause; improve drainage immediately or repot container plants into free-draining compost. Cutting into old wood when you prune lavender also causes die-back — always cut back into fresh grey-green foliage with new growth visible. Avoid overhead watering, which wets foliage and flower spikes and encourages fungal disease. Lavender plants grown in heavy London clay are best grown in raised beds with improved drainage, or in containers, to avoid the root rot problems that lead to the premature death of lavender planted directly into waterlogged clay soils.